Bangkok is bisected by the Chao Phraya river, which is also the major river in Thailand. Boat traffic on the river is bustling and chaotic.

Long tail boats are as colorful as they are noisy. Operating them takes a curious mix of mechanized force (the car engine to drive the prop shaft) and human brawn (the tiller to rotate the car engine, for steering the boat).

The Chao Phraya Express makes many stops along the river, like a city bus. The stops are very quick. Here is a boat coming in to dock. There is no shore crew.

The boat captain relies on on a spotter in the back of the boat to line up the boat’s unloading platform with the dock. The spotter signals to the captain with a number of distinct whistles to indicate when he is close and when he should stop.

When the boat is close enough and slowed down enough, the spotter hops ashore and ties up the boat.

Passengers on board disembark, and fares on shore embark. Depending on the number of passengers getting off or on, the boat could be in and out in less than a minute.

This captain has his family with him. Note on the mirror the picture of the bespectacled, beloved and recently deceased King Bhumibol.

Not all boat crew bothers with a PFD. This guy makes his job even more thrilling with a swing seat on the edge.

When traffic on the river is light, the scene can be quite soothing. Here is Wat Arun across the river from our hotel (Inn A Day), at sunrise and sunset.

